Daniel's Microcosm

Good: Following the disappointment at the Neuschwanstein Castle on Sunday due to foggy weather, I made plans to return there today as the weather forecast was good, and that the cost of transport was reasonably cheap due to the Bayern Ticket, a special train ticket that allows for unlimited train travel for 1 day in Bavaria (and Salzburg, Austria) for just 22 euros for 1 person (and 2 additional euros for each extra person up to 5, i.e. 30 euros for 5 persons). My train ticket from Munich Central to Munich Airport would have cost 10.50 euros alone, but the Bayern ticket was valid for Munich Central to Fussen (2 hr train), Fussen to Neuschwanstein Castle ticket office (15 min bus), Neuschwanstein Castle to Fussen (15 min bus), Fussen to Munich Central (2 hr train), and Munich Central to Munich Airport (40 min train). Transport arrangements aside, I was able to take photos of Neuschwanstein Castle in superb sunlight conditions, blue sky and all. I also did not have to wait too long for the castle tour, which showed how Neuschwanstein Castle was not only a fairy-tale castle on the exterior, but also in the interior. King Ludwig II had it built more for aesthetics than function, with each room having very different and seemingly random themes. Imagine entering a grotto which was one of the rooms! Actually the king had the castle rooms designed according to the operas which his good friend Richard Wagner composed. A most successful day trip and a befitting way to end my 3.5 weeks in Eastern and Central Europe.

Not-so-good: Bathing at 4.30am at the non-heated shower area of the outdoor campsite accommodation. There was hot water but the water flowed intermittently and ambient temperature was just 8 deg Celsius. The price to pay for being in Munich at the same time as Oktoberfest.

Noteworthy food/drink: The quintessential currywurst was just 2.20 euros at the Munich Central Train Station, bread included. I couldn’t tell how it was any less tasty compared to pricier versions I’ve had.

Good: The Deutsches Museum was on the reserved list of the sights I wanted to cover in Munich, but I decided to go for it anyway (not because I had extra time) and am glad I did so. It is a massive science centre, with very exhaustive collections. Three things to highlight are the coal mine (you walk through 700m of a mock-up mine in the basement), the very interactive and educational nanotechnology exhibit, and the actual old German U1 Submarine (not a model).

Not-so-good: Although I covered the top three in Munich today (Deutsches Museum, Munich Residenz, Pinakothek Museums), I was only able to finish about a third of each. Lots of things remaining to do should I find myself in Munich again.

Noteworthy food/drink: The Ullis Bierkutscherschnitzel, which is a typical Bavarian pork escalope in a crisp Obatzter coat (savoury cheese spread) fried in melted butter. Delicious!

Good: Watching the locals enjoying themselves at Oktoberfest.

Not-so-good: Nymphenburg Palace pales in comparison to the many other palaces (and similar buildings) I have seen on this trip.

Noteworthy food/drink: Bavarian beer served in one-litre mugs.

Good: The beautiful interior of the Wieskirche located just off the Romantic Road in Germany may not have been the best I have seen for this trip, but it certainly tops everything else today, including the most-anticipated sight of this trip, the Neuschwanstein Castle.

Not-so-good: The view of Neuschwanstein Castle from the Marienbrucke (Mary’s Bridge), or rather the lack of it due to the thick fog over the area.

Noteworthy food/drink: Festsuppe, which is a Swabian clear soup with cut-up bits of various things, such as pig liver and dumplings.

Good: Although Eisriesenwelt is just a cave of frozen water, it’s nevertheless a unique natural sight to see. Photography is not allowed during the guided tours in order to keep the people moving quickly along, so I was only able to take a mental snapshot of the superb ice formation that looks like the side profile of an anime character, fringe included.

Not-so-good: Foggy, rainy weather made it difficult to drive on the winding, narrow mountain roads, and dampened the experience at the could-have-been-spectacular Grossglockner Alpine Road.

Noteworthy food/drink: Lip-smacking Schweinebraten (pork roast) from the supermarket hot food section. Great snack for the road.

Good: Surrounded by picturesque hills, Salzburg seems to resonate with an energy that matches its reputation as the heart of music in Europe. Was it this atmosphere that resulted in Mozart being born here and the Sound of Music being set here, or was it because of these two key events that gave Salzburg its worldwide attraction? Who knows, but does it matter really? Just close your eyes, relax, and lose yourself in the magic of the music.

Not-so-good: Bought the 24-hour Salzburg Card for 25€ which gives free entrance to all of Salzburg museums, public transport, and some tours (potentially worth more than 100€), and used a grand total value of 25€, visiting just 3 of Salzburg’s payable attractions due to a combination of factors. Oh well, at least I broke even.

Noteworthy food/drink: Cheesy sausage kasekrainer which is not just cheese-injected-into-the-middle, but cheese-infused-into-every-pore. In other words, you can’t see the cheese, but you can definitely taste its full flavour.

Good: I didn’t think there would be anything better today than Melk Abbey with its opulent, gold-trimmed church, but the cruise along the Danube river managed to outdo it despite cloudy skies and occasional drizzles. It was a refreshing and tranquil experience, including the 2-hr stop at the very quiet town of Spitz. And given that I was one of just three passengers on the return trip (boat is large enough to sit hundreds), it felt like I was on a private cruise.

Not-so-good: The cloudy/drizzly day resulted in lacklustre outdoor photos. The cruise could have been so much more picturesque if only the sun had been out.

Noteworthy food/drink: The 2.20€ grape strudel I bought from Spitz and ate onboard the boat had whole grapes in it which were really sweet and delicious. No surprise given that the region is best known for its wines. A minus point for me was that the grapes had seeds, which I just crunched and swallowed as though they were nuts of some sort.

Good: Watching the opera Elektra at practically the best vantage point in the Vienna Opera House, for just 4€. Notwithstanding having to start queuing 3 hours before the performance and standing for the duration of the 112 min opera, I would say that the overall experience was well worth it. The plot of the opera was relatively easy to follow, and the English subtitles helped tremendously. Opera is very poetic and emotional, but sometimes you can’t help but wonder if taking 5-10 min to express a single point is really that necessary.

Not-so-good: The “Morning Exercise with Music” performance at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna’s Hofburg Palace feels to be more hype than substance. Priced at 14€ per adult, all you get to see are the horses doing their daily (very) basic exercises, and photography is not allowed. One wonders why there is a queue for it, and also why it isn’t an Austrian Riding School instead.

Noteworthy food/drink: The “original” Sacher Torte from Hotel Sacher in Vienna, not that I recall eating any of its copies before. It’s essentially a very rich chocolate cake which can keep for several days because it’s not the “fresh cream” kind. If I happen to be in Vienna again, I’d go for another slice.

Good: Being back in Vienna after 17 years, and having a pleasant feeling of deja vu as I walk around the grounds and tour the rooms of the Schonbrunn Palace. Been here, done this, don’t mind doing it again once more. But now equipped with a better camera and a more seasoned traveller’s perspective.

Not-so-good: The ensuite bathroom of the accommodation in Vienna has an unpleasant smell, assessed to be emanating from the recycled water of the toilet bowl. Pouring in some fragrant-smelling soap helps, but only till the next flush.

Noteworthy food/drink: Two huge Weiner schnitzels in a traditional Viennese Beisl for just 7€. What could be better?